You join me today at the quarry in chelmsford, essex, and it's a lake that i've fished loads as a young lad. A big lake, a weedy lake and a reasonably difficult lake for a young lad, and much of what I learnt then has probably shaped me as an angler today.
We're gonna talk today about long-range fishing. And looking at that island as such, from the road bank, i think it's roughly 110 yards and from here, roughly 120 yards.
And to fish at that range as a young lad, you know, with a 15lb mono, 20ml boilie on the end, it was a big chuck, you know. And since then obviously i've progressed and i've learnt how to cast long distances, much further distances.
But today i'm going to show you how to do it more easily, all the tricks, all the techniques and all the tackle you need to be able to fish at 120 yards, do it comfortably.
I'm gonna show you a marker float that's really aerodynamic, casts really well, the braid for the marker rods, again, really fine, casts beautifully. And the tapered main line, you know, that gets you around the leader bands that on many waters restrict how far you can cast and makes it just that much easier to fish at long-range.
First thing we're gonna talk about is long-range plumbing, how to find spots at long-range and the equipment I use to do so. First of all, i've got the new slr long-range float.
It stands for: long, thin, aerodynamic, there's a dart part on the top. Flies like an absolute dream, but I don't use that immediately.
The first thing that I do when i'm trying to find a spot at long-range, is I plumb with a bare lead.
This is a probe lead and I try and always use a really heavy lead. You know, heavier lead transmits more feel up the line and i'm able to find smaller, clear spots and i'm able to feel what's going on better when using the heavy lead.
To cast a four-ounce lead really long-range like we are today, you're looking for a rod of 4¼, 4½lb test curve. I'm using the longbow from daiwa and it's the marker spod rod, so it can be used for spodding, can be used for your marker rod.
When choosing a line for your marker set-up, there's certain things that you want to consider. First of all, you want zero stretch and braid offers that. But you need to pick the right type of braid.
You don't want sinking braid. Sinking braid is generally quite thick and doesn't cast very well. So for your marker set-up, you want a floating braid, has zero stretch. What that allows you to do is cast really long-range.
Feel the bottom, and should you pick up any weed, you know, which is muffling the sensation, it's being transmitted up the line, with that zero stretch, you can shake it off, get that weed back off the lead, and then you can continue to plumb.
Obviously, i'm using the korda marker braid. It's really fine, really supple, low friction through the rings, flies out there an absolute dream. Coupled to that is i add the 50lb arma kord leader.
Not only does it give me a bit more security when generating lots of power in big heavy casts, but it also enables the float to pop up much easier.
So find a spot with the bare lead, the probe marker lead. Once you've got that all clipped up, you can then attach the marker float and find out exactly how deep it is. Here's my marker float set up.
First thing's first, cut the lead off, and then I thread on the boom section from the adjustable zig-rig kit. And that just allows for any sort of minimal weed to not prevent the float from popping up.
Next from there, i've got a cut-down heli sleeve. It's meant for a helicopter rig, but if you just cut that in half and then tie the braid to your marker float, onto the swivel, this little rubber then just perfectly covers that over.
And then it all knits together just like that. So we've talked about the tackle, now we're going to talk about the technique to fish at long-range. And there's a few things that you should be thinking about when trying to make a long cast.
One is your foot position and weight transfer. You're starting with the weight on the back foot and then you're moving it onto the front foot.
You're doing that by having your arms above your head, leaning back, and then as you go onto the front foot, that's the moment when the left hand comes in.
It draws the bottom of the rod into your chest and brings the cast round. So it's weight transfer, arms above your head, and try and keep the rod as straight as possible when you make the cast.
If you come across sideways like that and you let go too early, it's like a slice, like in golf. And if you let go too late, it becomes like a hook.
But if you keep that rod completely straight as it comes over your head, the lead will fly true, no matter what point you let go at. Look at that! Spot on.
Obviously, i've done all the plumbing with the bare lead. I know that's exactly right, it's on the gravel. Just a case of popping that up, and that will give me a visual marker to then put my fishing rods to, to make sure that i'm clipped at exactly the right range.
Like that. You get that? - yep. Well, there you have it. There's my tips for fishing and marking at long-range. I'm sure if you apply them to your own fishing, it'll help you find brilliant spots that you'll certainly catch fish off..
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